Go Kart Hydraulic Brake Kit Bmi Karts Review
1.)I tin can merely assume that I am not the only i who experiences this , I was slightly ashamed that the seat that came with the mini bike wasn't spring loaded or had any suspension on the seat itself and it kills the lower dorsum. I was curious to know whether there is a aftermarket leap loaded seat because it would make the ride more enjoyable when going over bumps , pot holes , or anything of that sort.
two.)I as well accept another question that doesn't pertain to the one in the title, What is the all-time torque converter brand that would make a proficient purchase for my mini-bike, and from what I've gathered via net and videos , that the torque converter is ameliorate than the associates that is currently on it, is that truthful?
For the torque converter you just need a TAV-ii or similar. A GTC TC2 is a quality torque converter with a backplate that should bolt up to your wheel's engine at the appropriate bending with less or no modification compared to the Comet TAV-2. The Comet is made in USA though while the GTC.... not really certain.
How difficult was information technology to incorporate those torq converter parts you provided with the links, also, would y'all listen in showing me a movie of your mini-bike.
I have a question about the seat that is on the link, do I have to fabricate something in gild for the seat to fit on the minibike or will it simply attach without whatever bug, and do you buy springs for the seat or does the seat flex to provide the suspension similar feel?
Those torque converter parts fit the Honda engine well but require an angle mount to get the secondary upwards and articulate of the frame track and ground.
I used a 4 inch rise over run to make this work....
The seat is nice and has a niggling softness too information technology, but don't kid yourself these are hard tail bikes. I used the 2 inch springs only 3 would be better, will require you cut and weld some steel for the mount.
The 7 inch secondary is for a Kart, its suposed to offering a picayune more than torque.
A half dozen inch can requite you ten% overdrive, but a seven is a picayune nether bulldoze and then it's a ameliorate lucifer for the Baja's stock gearing.
You should also consider the nine tooth C blazon drive sprocket to lower your gearing further.
And a xanthous spring for the secondary.
20 inch tyres volition make an already tall gearing issue with this cycle worse if y'all don't practice something. Many people find a TAV-two as built on these bikes doe snot fully open at full throttle because a stock clone doesn't take enough torque with the stock 54 rear sprocket.
You lot can throw more power at the promblem and then chugalug vesture becomes a trouble.
I am however working the kinks out of this cycle.
Equally pictured 4200 rpm is near twoscore mph, not ideal unless your running flat roads ( and want to get faster still ).
Don't get me wrong its got plenty of extra torque on tap but thats difficult on the belts for climbing.
http://www.oldminibikes.com/forum/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=60214&cat=500
Stock tyres though, your just a piddling fart in a mitt and those hills around your abode are not very big lol.
I tried a leap seat on my concluding baja heat and took it dorsum off again, liked the feel of the OEM "saddle" improve
The TAV actually does help the bike out a lot, I am just running a regular TAV-30 on mine
Brakes aren't the all-time but I have never had an issue where I couldn't lock upwards the rear wheel, I now take front and rear drums which piece of work good with the additional speed of my bike.
As for tires I am running stock size forepart and rear merely changed to a much more ambitious tread on the back
Source: https://oldminibikes.com/forum/index.php?threads%2Falternative-seat-for-baja-mb200.63527%2F
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